I might start keeping at least a few sheets of 'write in the rain' paper on me for future climbs. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. Some examples of snack foods include dried meats (salami), jerky (turkey, beef, fish), tuna fish, cheese, crackers, bagels, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate, candy bars, gummy candy, cookies, energy bars and trail mix. If you are trying to coordinate a ride, feel free to send an email to info@northwestalpineguides.com and we can forward it to your fellow climbers. The combination of the other party and eventually our own pace resulted in us being at the summit around 11am; I hadnt imagined being so close to our turnaround time. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online at, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance, For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must, be able to maintain the pace set by our guides, e lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting, VISIT OUR ONLINE GEAR SHOP > THE GUIDE HUT, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington. It was somewhat difficult to find good spots, most of the great ones were already taken but we each had packed small bivy tents so we were each able to find somewhere tuck ourselves into for the night. I found the downclimbing easy to make up the difference, however for Joe and Rob this improvisational transition and the end of each rappel added some extra time. Vertical Descent Hiking: 2,000 feet The balance can be paid by check, or credit card. Photo by NPS/ W . Location: Mount ShuksanRatio: 2:1 climber to guide (max. At this meeting guides will issue Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. Guides must be licensed by the park in order to operate legallyplease use the current list of guide services only. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. Our instructors are highly skilled professional guides who have been selected based on their technical proficiency, proven safety records, careful judgment, patience, and supportive teaching styles. We enjoy dinner and go to bed early for the next days climb. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. You are responsible to carry all of your personal gear and food, as well as a portion of group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, fuel, etc.). Photos. Shuksan, Mt. Glacier travel, excellent climbing, stunning camp site. Summit day begins with a pre-dawn start and a climb up Winnie's Slide on moderate snow and ice. For travel insurance or Global Rescue membership. The low-impact principles of Leave No Trace are important no matter what activity you are engaged in, but in the alpine and in popular climbing areas, some practices become critical to the ecological health of the area. Rob belaying Joe up. Monday Friday / 9:00 5:00 PT, 3 Day Climb Washington State 9,131 ft. You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys start from the North side of the mountain and hike past a beautiful small lake before tackling the complex yet very moderate rock climbing terrain of the Fisher . Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. Dinner in high camp. Instant noodle soups and rice are also popular. We recommend basic painkillers, Moleskin, first-aid or athletic tape, Band-Aids, and anti-septic wipes or gel. That said, it is linked to one of the most striking features on the mountain. We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to eat while moving (about 150-200 calories each break). This non-volcanic North Cascades Peak offers access to a wide span of glaciated and rock terrain for climbing. so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher . Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. We will not stop for a big lunch break. We recommend the following training resources: Evoke Endurance Photo from summit of Baker. In any case, we made the most of it, headed up to Klipchuck campground after work on Friday Aug 12th and had a great weekend, doing some cragging on Saturday and sent Spontaneity Arete on Sunday. Kyle and I climbed Shuksan via the classic Fisher Chimneys route + SE rib on Sunday. This was his first time climbing in mountain boots as well. Elevation Gain: 7600 ft. . These items are required for our Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneyclimb. The North Cascades Permit boundary is clearly marked after Lake Ann. The mountains feature steep rugged glacially sculpted rocky mountain peaks with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous United States. From the top of the Slide, moderate climbing across three glaciers (White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide) leads to the foot of the summit pyramid, which we ascend via a 3rd class scramble up the central gully, or 5th class rock climbing on the pyramids Southeast Ridge. Artemiza, Amber, and Kristen were led by Forrest and Eve on one of the most beautiful mountains and climbs in the Pacific Northwest. Consider the experience of your party and ensure you have adequately experienced climbers to supervise/assist lessexperienced climbers throughthe bottlenecks and rockfall hazards presented on this climb. For more information on food storage requirements see this page. Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. We do not recommend an additional pack for summit day. We ask that you consult your travel insurance carrier directly with questions. For more info about current coverage plans and quotes please visit. We generally arrive back at our cars by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley. It wasnt late, so we had some time to decide. However, excellent weather and generous trip planning made this a very successful outing with abundant learning opportunities. North Cascades Mountain Guides is among the few companies fortunate enough to be allowed to guide trips to the summit of Mount Rainier. At more than 500,000 acres, the North Cascades National Park consists of a lifetime of Alpine Mountaineering and Alpine Rock Climbing. Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. Here, the 50/60m rope setup did not quite reach the '5th' rap station. It is longer, steeper, and involves more technical terrain than the standard Sulphide Glacier Route on Mount Shuksan. Minus the ropes, what I packed for the trip. They are dedicated to a climbing lifestyle, and collectively have climbed throughout the earths major mountain ranges. The best times to visit this trail are June through September. Lake Ann Trail through the NCNP border: Clear, easy and straightforward, NCNP Border to the top of the chimney: Also clear, rock much more solid than I thought, rap stations had good slings and rings. updates, images, or resources. There was no boot pack to the SE ridge so I had to somewhat guess where it started. Day 2 . Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. At 8:00 a.m. on the morning of the climb, we meet at the Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA for equipment check and orientation before heading to the trailhead. Moving more slowly can be dangerous. We have no idea if we were lucky or if there were several remaining permits left behind. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Shuksan is the center piece. Note: CamelBaks and other bladder-style hydration systems may be used in addition to two water bottles, but are not sufficient. Climb. Each deposit includes a $300.00 nonrefundable registration fee. Fisher Chimneys: Main Peak: 115: 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. One of the finest mountaineering objective in the Cascades. June 26-27. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. This photo courtesy of Joe. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. The ridge was fun, had exciting but not intimidating exposure on both sides, and the rock was solid enough. The glaciers in route to your objective are watershed to major spillways feeding the highest degree of flora biodiversity of any American national park. Food Canister requirements in portions of some popular climbing zones. . . We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to Lake Ann. Climbers should monitor the forecast diligently before beginning a trip and turn around if conditions deteriorate. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. Permits are required to camp beyond this point and can be obtained for free at the Glacier Public . The Sulphide Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys, and the North Face are all commonly climbed, and regularly guided. Mt. Route and glacier conditions undergo significant changes during the course of a season. Many areas of the park are remote and seldom visited, with few or no current conditions reports. If you must leave a piece of webbing during a rappel, remove one or more of the ratty slings already in place, and use a natural color webbing that will not be visible from a distance. Mount Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys is one of the very classic Cascadian alpine routes up the arguably most iconic peak in North Cascades National Park. Joe and Rob rapped down the steep section. A strongcardiovascularsystem,endurance, core strength, flexibility and balanceletussafelyenjoythespectacular terrainand close camaraderiewe find inthe planets highest places. Above Fisher Chimneys. Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the hour and forty-five minute drive to Sedro Woolley, Washington. Almost at the Summit Pyramid. Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. Fires Dont burn it Check the weather, avalanche forecast, gear recommendations, and more on the safety page. The Guide Hut offers a wide variety of freeze-dried meals for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options. The Guide Hut offers a selection of retail items, Northwest Alpine Guides logo wear, and a selection of climbing equipment. There are a couple down trees on the trail in the forest. We left Seattle about 5:30. am, to ensure that were the first people at the ranger station for Price XC. Mt. updates, images, or resources. However, while browsing rec.gov I noticed that previously unavailable permits for Price XC zone on Shuksan had become available, probably a cancellation due to the weekend only having a 2-day window of splitter weather. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. The Fisher Chimneys is a long, classic alpine route that leads climbers through varied terrain to the airy summit of Mount Shuksan. Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Despite the fact that Hells Highway was steeper than Winnies slide, the darkness helped mask the sense of exposure so I was able to just keep our party moving up the slope without needing to pull out pickets and do a running belay. Participants age 15: May only participate in private climbs and must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian. Baker and Mt. My goal for the summer of 2022 was to reinvigorate my goal of leading alpine climbs; the last time I had led anything was back in 2016-2017; and at that time, I had led a few multi-pitch rock climbs to 5.7 but nothing truly alpine. The mountain's name Shuksan comes from the Native American (Lummi tribe) word qsn, which means "high peak". Rapping the famous 'dihedral'. The team then hikes south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). Unfortunately, we were a good 15 minutes into it before I realized this, so we continued to route find our way up to the chimneys entrance on what was probably a less efficient path. Three or four 15-minute lunch & snack breaks during the hike to high camp. Dinner: Freeze-dried dinners are easy to prepare but do not always taste good and may affect your stomach. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. From the summit, we enjoy views of the glaciers beneath us on Shuksans north face, and the serrated peaks of the North Cascades. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. Shuksan. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. The Upper Curtis glacier was shedding ice and rock all evening into the night, an excellent reminder of the ever present objective hazards and motivation to stay efficient moving under the cliff bands to the left the next day. Requires good physical condition and endurance. We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. Turn around when conditions or common sense tell you to do so. When you must cross a vegetated area, spread out so that all your footsteps dont crush the same plant. We are currently full for our 2023 dates and are accepting waitlist names at this time. The Northwest Forest Pass or the federal interagency recreation pass (America the Beautiful Pass) are honored at parking sites and are available at all ranger stations. Know and follow these dos and donts for dealing with human waste. Related climbs: Mount Shuksan Sulphide Glacier, Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys,Forbidden Peak, Mount Baker North Ridge, Day 1 Hike to High Camp From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Mt. The difficulties of the climb include glacier travel, Hell's Highway, Winnie's Slide, 3rd to 4th class scrambling on the Fisher Chimneys and summit pyramid. Summit Mount Hood! All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions, MOUNTAIN BUREAU LLC 1752 Northwest Market Street Box 414, Seattle, Washington, United States +1.6-one-9.432.546-two contact@mountainbureau.com. Heather and huckleberry are woody species whose stems break under the weight of boots, packs, or tents. and then we had to drive way off route into Marblemount to pick up a Park Service backcountry permitthe Park Service offices in Sedro Wooley and Glacier both closed at 4:30 pm that day and didn't open until 7:45 am on . RMI's guides have been climbing and guiding in the Alaska Range for over half a century. The Fisher Chimneys is the classic all-around alpine climb in the North Cascades. The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. If there is a trail, use iteven if it means taking the 37 switchbacks instead of heading straight to your climb. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. Considering Rob and Joe had spent over 13 hours doing a very large list of firsts on a tough mountaineering route, I knew that trying to force everyone to solo downclimb the entire chimney section wasnt going to be a great idea. We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the North Cascades and Mount Baker. With over 40 years of history on the mountain RMI is . Rob taking in the elevation gained so far, looking down at the Lower Curtis glacier. This is our happy place. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. Joe and Rob putting on the crampons at the high bivy site to make the final snow descent down Winnie's Slide to the chimneys. September 2017. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. The Mountain Bureau will never share or sell your information. Payments Policy. Flagging and excessive webbing are considered trashpack them out like you do all of your other garbage! It didnt take long, and we arrived at the entrance of the chimney itself. Shuksan. This is an advanced climb that showcases the majesty of the North Cascades. July 22, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers. This was a fun climb, and a huge confidence booster. Burlington, WA 98233. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Hiking Time: 6 hours, Accommodations: Tented Camp The summit pyramid has an option for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast Rib. This is a difficult one way trail to Mount Shuksan in Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. 810 State Route 20 Lou Whittaker first climbed Denali in 1960, marking the 12th ascent of the mountain. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. Our guides are friendly, very willing to share their own experiences, and can help you develop a plan to achieve your own climbing ambitions. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. The NWAG office does not coordinate ridesharing or carpooling and we are unable to share customer or guide contact information due to privacy concerns. Weather can be severe in the North Cascades. I made sure to follow the main upper route on the way down, which involved more 3rd class down climbing than I expected. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. This gully system is called Fisher Chimneys and contains sections of small gullies (chimneys) to climb up. Mount Shuksan: Location: USA-Washington: Elevation: 9131 ft / 2783 m: Ascent Trip Report 4 of us attempted Mount Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. Bring layers of fleece or wool clothing and a good sleeping bag to keep warm. Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. Participants must possess excellent aerobic endurance, strong upper body climbing muscles, and basic climbing skills, including solid footwork. Gear may be purchased from the Guide Hut in person on the morning of your climb, or in advance viaourOnline Gear Shop. You should have a foundation in basic rock climbing, including solid footwork and upper body strength. Read the leader's notes and understand the trip, Prerequisites, Leader's Permission Required, Mentored lead for Frank Chai. . The crux of the approach day is climbing 4th class rock with an overnight pack to access the high camp at Winnie's Slide. Six people is the recommended party size for this climb. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys and SE Rib on the summit spire. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. about 7:40 and were the first car in the parking lot. You should be able to hike/climb for 1 to 2 hours at a time, punctuated by 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours. 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